Our guide to dining out in Lisbon
Those seeking some authentic tapas should begin their search in the Triana district, across the Guadalquivir river that once separated the aristocrats from the poor and working classes. Near the riverbank, the traditional Triana Market is a lovely, covered space where some vendors sell fruit, vegetables, meat and fish, their stalls marked with bright ceramic tiles, while others sell coffee, fancy pastries or souvenir posters and lacy fans.
Start by admiring the azulejo tiles and vintage bullfight posters at Casa Cuesta, in operation since 1880. Try a tinto de verano, a fizzy red-wine-based drink, while sampling pork-cheek stew, an Arab-influenced spinach and chickpea casserole, or fried eggplant fingers drizzled with dark cane-sugar syrup.
Move on up the road to the original outpost of Las Golondrinas for a glass of Cruzcampo pilsner and a dish of grilled mushrooms with parsley aioli, or a slab of sizzling hot, salt-flaked pork loin on bread that soaks up the juices. For something more modern check out the sleeker Tipico for dry white sherry and traditional dishes presented in fresh ways, including an olive oil and potato salad with tuna and diced red onion.
Cafe Bar Levíes is a great option for a late night tapas crawl, Cafe Bar Levíes serves food until they close at 1 a.m. The tapas at this no-frills bar have a more unique flair than most traditional places, making it the perfect choice for late-night diners on the prowl for something different. It’s constantly packed with locals and their staff is exceedingly professional and friendly no matter what time of day you stop by. This is one of the best restaurants open late in Seville